Xi Scorpii is the feminist fashion brand transforming discarded materials into nature-inspired couture

London-based feminist label Xi Scorpii crafts couture pieces through a philosophy of sustainable production. “As a feminist brand, we hope to see women living in a world that is more equitable, sustainable, natural, and harmonious for both humanity and the environment,” its founder and creative director, Chinese designer Xixi Tong, explains during our interview. Founded in 2021 by the Central St. Martin's grad, Xi Scorpii sources recycled textiles, vintage, and second-hand garments and transforms them using both traditional garment making techniques and modern methods, including laser cutting, 3D printing with eco-friendly resin. The result? Jaw-dropping sculptural couture worn by the likes of Ayra Starr, Nicki Minaj, and more.

The brand’s most recent fashion collection, named IVY, IVY, IVY, reflects on human environments and the resilience of nature. Earthy, organic pieces, armor-like recyled steel gowns, 3D printed corsets, and delicate gauzy creations showcase clever material details like unique reflective lace, created by combining reflective fabric with recycled yarn, alongside Xi Scorpii's first foray into robotics, which sees moving plant tendrils animating key looks across the collection.

The new collection is incredible. Talk us through the concept.

Xixi Tong: I came across a photo book in the library by chance. The photographer had traveled to abandoned buildings in the Soviet Union, capturing images of large structures that once seemed very futuristic. I was intrigued, so I started researching these buildings and discovered that they had been robotics centers, aerospace research facilities, and monumental sites.

One that caught my attention was Tatlinʼs Tower, a spiral-shaped design that was meant to be erected in St. Petersburg in 1920, but it was never buiIt. It was romantic, but very impractical, a work embodying humanity’s loftiest fantasies and ideals. I incorporated many spiral forms as a nod to that
inspiration.

The newest collection is called IVY, IVY, IVY after the creeping plant that has overtaken these abandoned structures. Although deserted by people, nature has reclaimed the space and flourished. The past inevitably repeats itself. My outlook is somewhat pessimistic: Ultimately, humanity will return to nature; all that we currently possess is merely transient.

How did you source the materials for IVY, IVY, IVY?

Xixi Tong: For me, second-hand clothing represents a memory of a specific era and the people who lived through it. I collect second-hand garments and items that reflect the theme of the current season, then I reconstruct them using my own unique methods.

Across the collection, more than 70% of the fabrics came from textiles recycled from the fashion industry. While working with suppliers in Guangzhou, I learned that international designer brands who manufacture there leave behind surplus fabric that no one buys. I purchased it and, since we currently focus on custom orders rather than mass production, I transformed those unwanted fabrics into high-end couture gowns. I find that very meaningful.

I also visited Paris and Italy to source exquisite remnants. Often, they’re only two or three meters in length. Figuring out how to use such limited yardage is sometimes a struggle, but can create interesting outcomes. The stainless steel is reclaimed from a factory in China that produces components for the military.

What role does innovation play in your sustainable design process, and are there any new materials or techniques you're exploring?

Xixi Tong: I continuously explore new materials and technologies, hoping that each season brings new technical advancements and innovations. I define this collection as ‘Laboratory Couture,’ meaning every look is created through extensive material experimentation. This season marks my first attempt at incorporating mechanical, remote-controlled, and button-operated elements. Through the mechanical ivy, I aim to visualize the transformations brought by time. We’re also currently collaborating with a Chinese eco-friendly textile company to jointly develop sustainable fabrics tailored to our various new collections.

What else do you have planned for the brand?

Xixi Tong: I'm looking forward to more interdisciplinary collaborations that explore the full potential of fashion. In my view, the fashion industry isn’t lacking in exceptional womenswear designers or brands; what it needs is innovative design language and perspectives. The ultimate goal is for my brand to unveil surprising creations every season.

Taken from SYKY Magazine: Issue 02. Collect the limited-edition digital cover creatively directed by Nicola Formichetti until February 13. Keystone Holders get a free mint.